Embracing the Eternal City: My Love Affair with Rome
- fernaju13
- May 20
- 7 min read
Updated: Oct 30
If there’s one thing I’ve learned over the years, it’s that there’s no such thing as "too much Rome." I remember telling a friend I was heading back to Rome for the second time in the same year (which, to be perfectly honest, isn’t even the first time I’ve done that). His response? “What’s her name?” I had a good laugh because, well, it is like a love affair — but with a city. A city that’s been around for over 2,500 years! Sure, Rome might be considered expensive, crowded, and even a bit gritty with all the history weighing down on her, but I wouldn’t have her any other way. She’s perfect.
The Enchantment of Rome
What I really love about Rome is the energy. I know, you thought I’d say the food and wine, and yes, of course that’s amazing! And I’ll get to that soon enough. But before I talk about my favorite places to eat and hang out, let’s talk about her magic for a moment.
Have you ever seen the sky at dusk? Of course, you have. It’s magical. But in Rome, it can be unreal; it’s deep and rich. The way it gradually fades into the soft hues of twilight has me longing for her this very minute. I’ve only seen that particular intense rich blue sky in Rome. I find myself staying up late at night just to be part of it all. I don’t want to sleep; and it’s not just the light in the sky. It’s the way the light bounces off the centuries-old domes down below as I’m heading towards my pre-dinner aperitivo (usually a Negroni if you’re wondering). Or the way the cobblestones shine and come to life after the rain, especially on Via Giulia, my favorite street in Rome, where my favorite boutique hotel is located. But don’t just take my word for it — let me take you on a little journey through my Rome, and maybe you'll catch a glimpse of why I can't stay away for too long.
Culinary Delights Await
OK, so now for the food and wine. Below is a list of my top ten (10) favorite places to eat and hang out, as well as a few pro tips for getting the most of your time in the Eternal City.
1. Roscioli Salumeria: Your First Stop (and Mine!)
Alright, I’m not saying it’s a requirement, but I kick off every trip to Rome with lunch at Roscioli Salumeria. Picture this: a high-end Italian deli, but with a wine list that’s out of this world (more on Roscioli wine later). The vibe? Chill. Friendly. Fun. And the aroma? Oh, that aroma of cheese and meats! I love sitting at the bar and chatting with fellow food lovers from all over the world. But don’t worry — there are plenty of seating options if dining at the bar isn’t your thing. My favorite dish is the spaghettone carbonara. It’s a stone’s throw from Campo de' Fiori, and trust me, it's popular. So, if you're planning to go, book early!
2. Roscioli Rimessa: Wine, Pairings, and More Wine
Okay, Roscioli’s got a second location (actually four within blocks of each other, including a relatively new one in New York City’s SOHO neighborhood), and it's all about wine. Imagine pairing fine Italian wines with classic Italian dishes. The servers are all trained sommeliers, but don’t worry, they’ll make you feel at home. In fact, ask for Lindsey, one of the owners, and tell her I sent you. Take your time here — it's meant to be a slow, indulgent experience. This is where I learned that to truly enjoy Italian wine, it must be accompanied by the right dishes. And by the way, they ship me organic and natural wines twice a year, so you know this place is legit. Book ahead, because it gets packed, and it’s right near Campo de' Fiori again.
3. Armando al Pantheon: Lunch with Locals (and a Side of History)
Let’s talk about Armando al Pantheon — a stone’s throw from the Pantheon (no surprise there). It could sound touristy, but it’s not. It’s small, intimate, and absolutely beloved by locals. The food? I’ve got to say it: the best in Rome. And no, I'm not exaggerating. Their tomatoes, yes, I’m talking about tomatoes, come straight from Naples daily, and trust me, it makes all the difference. It’s the small stuff! (Pro Tip: if you’re lucky enough to sit outside, grab it!) Booking a table in advance is a must, and you’ll need to plan ahead (they only take reservations 30 days out).
4. Da Enzo al 29: A Casual Gem You’ll Wait For (But It's Totally Worth It)
Picture this: no reservations, a super casual vibe, and a line out the door. This place is a local favorite, and the food is everything you’d want from a classic Roman trattoria. You’ll find me here devouring pasta with oxtail ragu, Jewish-style artichokes, and grilled steak. Trust me — the wait is so worth it. While you're waiting, grab a beer and make some friends in line. And don’t be surprised if the owner comes out and hands you samples of one of their pastas while you’re waiting in line. It's in Trastevere, a charming, vibrant neighborhood, and not far from the historic Jewish Ghetto (walk through it after lunch, and take your time doing it).
5. Piano Strada: Where Food Meets Fun (and a Cute Bulldog)
If you're looking for a cool, contemporary spot with a fun, lively atmosphere, head to Piano Strada. The owners and chefs are three women who really know how to create an experience. You’ll want to sit at the counter to watch their “cooking show” as they whip up delicious dishes. Oh, and the focaccia? Unforgettable. The food is classic with a bit of a modern twist. They also have a stunning courtyard if dining at the counter isn’t your thing. And did I mention the adorable bulldog that hangs out at the front desk? It’s another must-visit, especially if you’re near Campo de' Fiori.
6. Da Francesco: My Go-To for my Last Dinner of Every Trip
This one’s also a tradition for me. Every trip, Da Francesco is where I end my trip. It makes leaving this incredible city a little less melancholy. The food is exceptional, and the vibe is low-key but festive. It’s located on a simple street, with unpretentious tables, but the food and wine? Wow. I always sit outside and don’t even mind the occasional vespa motoring past my table. The best part? The so-called wine cellar is really a little shop across the street not open to the public. My friend Mark and I once spent about 30 minutes in there with the sommelier and owner just talking about wine. That night, we enjoyed two of the best bottles of Barolo of our lives over another three-hour dinner. And trust me — Flavio, the owner, will give you an unforgettable experience.
7. Antico Forno Roscioli: Pizza & Focaccia You’ll Dream About
Think you’ve had pizza before? Think again. Antico Forno Roscioli is known for its focaccia and pizza al taglio (pizza by the slice). My favorites? The one with mortadella or the porchetta with crispy, thinly sliced potatoes. It's always packed, but don’t worry — the line moves quickly. Grab a beer, stand around outside, and mingle while making new friends. Yes, another excellent Roscioli place in town! This gem is also near Campo de' Fiori.
8. Fior di Luna: Gelato Heaven in Trastevere
Now, let’s talk gelato. Fior di Luna may not look like much from the outside, but inside, you’ll find some of the best gelato in Rome. Mostly locals pop in (always a good sign), and my personal favorite? The pistachio or hazelnut, or both. Why not! If you’re in Trastevere, this is your spot.
9. Bar San Calisto: Where Coffee Meets Character
If you’re an espresso aficionado or just appreciate an unpretentious place to hang out all afternoon, Bar San Calisto is a must-visit. It’s kind of a dive bar with a loyal following of students, artists, and anyone looking for cheap drinks and good company. Sure, it’s nothing fancy, with graffiti on nearby walls, but that’s what makes it so special. It’s an iconic hangout spot, and you’ll often hear live music right outside late into the night. It's in Trastevere, too!
10. Campo de' Fiori: A Morning Ritual
Every morning, I head to Campo de' Fiori for a fresh-squeezed juice (my favorite? Pomegranate with a slice of lemon). During the day, it’s a bustling market; think the ultimate farmer’s market. But by night, it turns into a hotspot for both tourists and locals. Fun, chaotic, and most of the food can be disappointing. So, my advice? Avoid it in the evening — but don’t miss the morning ritual!
A Few Pro Tips for Making the Most of Rome
Skip Breakfast: Yes, I said it! A cornetto (aka a croissant) is all you need before lunch. Italians do cappuccino only before 11 am — all that steamed milk makes it a breakfast beverage — so, again, have a cappuccino, but never after 11 am (it's sacrilege in Italy). If anything, get yourself an espresso macchiato if a straight-up espresso isn’t your thing. Oh, and warning, if you order a latte, you’ll get a glass of milk!
Timing is Everything: For the best views of the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, or the Vatican, go early in the morning or late at night. The crowds are thinner, and you get to enjoy these places in peace. Not to mention that beautiful Roman light. Oh, that light!
Taste Everything: Split dishes with your friends or family so you can try as many Roman classics as possible. Cacio e pepe, carbonara, amatriciana, and alla gricia are must-try pasta while in Rome. In fact, these are Roman classics! The other must-try in Rome is Jewish-style artichoke. It’s super crispy and unforgettable! Trust me, your taste buds will thank you.
Walk the Jewish Ghetto: It’s rich in history and culture, and even though it’s a bit touristy now, it’s a must-see. Take a few minutes to learn about its powerful past before you go.
Street Music: A Hidden Treasure
If you're around St. Peter’s Square just before dusk, check out the street music near Castello St. Angelo, which overlooks the beautiful St. Angelo Bridge. Dusk is magical, as I’ve mentioned countless times, but the vibe after midnight is also something special. Peaceful. Almost Zen-like. I’ve walked it many times, and it’s worth mentioning that I always feel completely safe and as happy and calm as ever. Likewise, in terms of music, Ponto Sisto near Trastevere offers a lively music scene at sunset. Make sure to catch it if you’re nearby!
Ciao for Now!
I’ll let you go for now, but I hope I’ve sparked the beginning of your own personal love affair with Rome — or at least given you a few ideas on how to explore it like a local. Enjoy, and maybe I’ll see you there soon!
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